Fashion June 10, 2010 By Eugene Rabkin

dolma page3 Damir Doma“If you want an oversized jacket, you come here, if you want a tight jacket, you go elsewhere. It’s about picking the right things from the right designer and combining them with your personality. I don’t like seeing someone head to toe in one designer, whether it’s me or someone else. I don’t necessarily want to see people at my shows dressed like a crazy poet — this is my vision, but it’s not very practical wearing on the street.”
    With each collection Doma tries to move forward. “When I start a new collection the first step for me is always to reflect on the last one. Last season I got such great feedback that I thought maybe I made it a little bit too easy just by throwing in a bit of red color. This time I wanted to do something different, and so I worked a lot on structure and prints. Prints were a new field for me and it was a lot of fun to do them. The dry earth print was my favorite. We tried to basically throw in all the chaos of different structures, prints, and colors and we created new structures. I am really happy with the results because here you won’t find that seventy-percent core — every piece is a fashion piece, done specifically for this collection. Even the most basic things like T-shirts are a new cut that you won’t find in my other collections.“
    Doma was born in Croatia, grew up and studied in Germany, and cut his teeth working for Raf Simons and Dirk Schonberger in Antwerp. He is a new cosmopolitan type of a designer who brings in and mixes different influences to create something distinctly his own. “When I started I hated to give references, because my background is very multicultural,” Doma said. But if I had to give references, I’d say the Japanese designers of late ’70s and early ’80s. I absorb all cultures and give it back out again.” Indeed the volume of his last collection’s silhouettes has a bit of Yohji Yamamoto in it.

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