How has industrial music influenced you as a person and as a designer?

My first memory of affection for things “Industrial” would be as a child of 3. I had an interest in engines and a fondness for their sound. It foreshadowed my tastes in music, that dark, throbbing, primal energy and rhythm.

I grew up in the eighties, surrounded by some of the most bland, shallow, lowest common denominator pop culture imaginable. At the same time there existed a darker, deeper reaction to this superficiality and this was represented by the Industrial subculture. I saw this as almost a physical protest against the mainstream and by aligning myself with this movement I felt that I could register my distaste for the safe and the conventional. I wanted to remain a part of an underground culture. Even though the idea of Industrial seems to promote mass production and standardization, the actual cultural movement always represented for me a spirit of individuality and independence.

What is very important for me, as a designer, is that Industrial does not simply apply to music but also to art, film, literature, architecture, and other forms of culture. David Lynch would be a good example of this: a guy who not only made Industrial-influenced movies but also wrote, composed music, and painted as well. Industrial Music has had a huge effect on movies and other culture by way of Cyber- and Steam-punk. Films like Blade Runner, Tetsuo, Hellraiser, and Geiger’s Alien all reflect that Industrial man/machine interface which in turn informs my designs.

Purely in terms of music my taste has always been towards the “Techno”. Throbbing Gristle in the UK was a big favorite. They actually termed the phrase “Industrial Music” (apparently, ironically). In Germany there was Einstürzende Neubauten who were extremely avant-garde. In Japan we had “Noise” specialist Merzbow and in the States my big favorite was Ministry, who would dress totally in black and were protected from their audience by metal fencing. Nine Inch Nails were always incredibly cool, but in my mind they kind of bleed into Gothic culture rather than belonging totally to the “Industrial” genre. Actually, the slogan for my first label, NUKE, was “YOU MUST BE INDUSTRIALISED.”

How do you reflect Industrial influence in the clothes you make?

For me Industrial is a philosophy. It reflects the reality of the modern condition and the state of the world we are in, whereas mainstream culture is more about fantasy and aspiration for some kind of Hollywood glamour that does not actually exist. This influence is reflected in my collections, which are very strong, basic, and “real” clothes. They can be worn every day, even in extreme situations, and will continue to be useful and practical, protective and wearable, for many years to come. Just like Industrial music, my designs have nothing to do with what is “fashionable” or “trendy”.