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Photography Courtesy of Diabless

“I don’t think that being a modern designer means being in front of the press,” says the usually reticent Chantal Hagège, fashion garbo behind the Diabless fashion line. The irony’s considerable. In Hagège’s case, it’s her would-be “silent partners” who do all the talking. Having worked independently in fashion for some two decades, not without success, Hagège and her highly impressive designs only became Diabless after receiving significant financial backing from the CEOs of Today’s Man and Fairchild Corporation. The resulting equation, Diabless, was a dream come true by any designer’s measure: total creative control with nil responsibility for marketing, visual merchandising, etc. Yet Hagège remains removed from the glitz. “I strongly believe my designs will be interesting for themselves without my promoting them in interviews and putting my face and views with the designs.
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Him: Peacoat Vivienne Westwood Her: Dress Vintage Rellic Coat Amosh

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Metallic Mini Sass & Bide Crochet Tank DDC Lab Blouse Mischen Trench Coat Aurelio Costarella Hat Nixon Ring Pianegonda

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Photography by Carlota Manaigo

“Jean-Paul Belmondo; riding a Vespa; sitting in cafes; smoking a cigarette and checking out girls with your buddies…” — just a few touchstones of Paris in the 1960s, Robert Geller says, which inspired the debut collection of his new men’s line. “What I liked about that time,” Geller explains, “was the masculinity. They didn’t watch every word they said. But they also had a sensitive side.” In Robert Geller Collection, one of the most anticipated and watched launches this fall, that translates into mid-length leather jackets, wide-legged trousers, short-brimmed Ecuador hats, skinny suspenders, and cotton voile shirts, all on lean but muscular young men who, like Belmondo in Breathless, are slightly unformed creatures, not yet certain to turn out good or bad.
     “They could have this vulgarness [sic], this roughness, but also be in touch with a vulnerable, feminine side,” Geller says. “It’s the kind of masculinity I like. Today, that’s coming back. People are open to a more diverse image of masculinity again. Guys want toughness with a touch of elegance. That’s something girls like to see in a man.”
     Geller knows a bit about men’s wear and what women like to see. After training at Marc Jacobs, he joined Alexandre Plokhov at Cloak in 2002 and helped revamp the line, earning the duo the Ecco Domani prize in 2003 and a Vogue/CFDA grant in 2004.
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